Hidden Gems
Thailand's beaches, before the crowds found them
Picture the Thai islands twenty years ago: white sand, clear water, jungle behind the beach and hardly any buildings. That's Koh Rong today. Long stretches of beach have no one on them, and prices are a fraction of what you'd pay across the border.
At night it gets even better. On dark nights the water glows with bioluminescent plankton, and every splash lights up. But roads and resorts are slowly arriving, so this version of Koh Rong won't be around forever.
Beaches worth the boat ride
- Long Beach (Sok San): kilometres of powder-white sand, often almost empty.
- Koh Touch: the island's village and main pier, with cheap food, bars and a backpacker buzz.
- Lonely Beach: remote, rustic and as quiet as the name says. Getting there is part of the adventure.
- The glowing plankton: swim after dark, away from the lights, and watch the water sparkle around you.
- Koh Rong Samloem: the smaller sister island next door, with the calm, turquoise Saracen Bay.
Our tips for Koh Rong
- Bring US dollars in cash. Dollars are used everywhere in Cambodia, and there are no proper ATMs on the island, only a few guesthouses that give cash out on your card.
- Pick your beach before you book. Getting between beaches can mean a boat taxi or a rough ride. Stay where you want to spend your days.
- Check the moon for plankton. The glow is best on dark, moonless nights. A full moon washes it out.
- Leave a buffer day for the ferry. Boats can be cancelled in rough weather. Don't plan a flight for the same day you leave the island.
- Go soon. New roads and resorts are coming. The quiet, barefoot Koh Rong is changing year by year.
