Chefchaouen

Ever seen a whole town in one colour?

Chefchaouen was founded in 1471 as a small fortress hidden in the mountains. Today its old town is painted in every shade of blue, from pale sky to deep indigo, and it gets repainted again and again.

Nobody fully agrees why it's blue. Some say Jewish refugees brought the tradition, with blue as the colour of the sky and heaven. Others say it keeps mosquitoes away, or keeps the houses cool. Whatever the reason, walking through it feels like being inside a painting.

What to see

• The blue medina: just wander. The best photos are in the quiet residential lanes, away from the main shopping streets.
• Plaza Uta el-Hammam: the main square, with the red-walled kasbah and its garden and small museum.
• Ras El Ma: the mountain spring at the edge of the old town, where locals wash rugs and you can cool your feet.
• The Spanish Mosque at sunset: a 30–60 minute walk up the hill from Ras El Ma, with the best view over the whole blue town.
• Akchour waterfalls: a day trip about 45 minutes away, with hikes to waterfalls and a natural rock arch called God's Bridge.

Our tips for Chefchaouen

• Wander early. In the first hours of the morning the alleys are empty and the light on the blue walls is soft.
• Ask before you photograph people. This is their home. Photos of walls and doors are fine, but ask before pointing the camera at someone.
• Stay in a riad inside the old town. Waking up inside the blue maze is the whole experience.
• Bring cash in dirhams. Small shops, taxis and cafés often don't take cards.
• Dress modestly and say "no thanks" firmly. You'll be offered things in the street. A calm, polite no is all it takes.