Palawan

Water this blue shouldn't be real

Palawan is what happens when jungle-covered limestone cliffs meet the sea. The rock has been carved into hidden lagoons, some only reachable by kayak or by swimming through a gap in the cliff. From the air the water goes from deep blue to a shade of turquoise that looks edited. It isn't.

It also has one of the strangest places in Asia: a river that runs for kilometres through a cave and flows straight out into the sea. It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site and was voted one of the New 7 Wonders of Nature.

The spots you can't miss

• Kayangan Lake, Coron: a short, steep climb to the viewpoint behind the famous photo, then a swim in the clearest lake you'll ever see.
• Twin Lagoon, Coron: two lagoons separated by a rock wall. You swim or climb through a gap to get from one to the other.
• Big and Small Lagoon, El Nido: you paddle in by kayak between towering cliffs. Small Lagoon's entrance is barely wider than a boat.
• The Underground River, Puerto Princesa: a paddle boat takes you into the cave in near darkness, past bats and rock formations.
• Island hopping: the classic way to see it all. Boats leave in the morning and stop at beaches, reefs and lagoons all day.

Our tips for Palawan

• Take the first boat out. The lagoons are magical when you're alone and chaotic an hour later. Pick a tour that leaves early.
• Book the underground river ahead. Entry is by permit with a daily limit, so book at least two weeks ahead, and a month or more in peak season.
• Bring cash. ATMs in El Nido and Coron are few and sometimes run dry. Island fees and small boats are cash only.
• Pack a dry bag and reef-safe sunscreen. You'll be in and out of boats all day. Don't touch or stand on the coral.
• See both El Nido and Coron. They're a few hours apart by ferry, and each has lagoons the other doesn't.